Crossing the Bernina with the Biancograt

Piz Bernina via the Biancograt, the easternmost 4,000-m-peak of the Alps

Crossing the Piz Palü, scenically one of the greatest tours. Morteratsch, Piz Rosegg via the Eselsgrat is what awaits us this week.


Sunday

Meet at approx. 2 pm on the Diavolezzabahn cable car lot. Then take the train to Morteratsch and an unhurried ascent to the Bovalhütte hut of approx. 2 hours.


Monday

Piz Morteratsch (3,751 m): Ascend up one of the best panoramic mountains in the Bernina, Piz Morteratsch via the Bovalscharte and descend to the Tschiervahütte hut.

  • Walking time 6-7 hours

Tuesday

Ascend via the Vadret da Tschierva to the start of the Eselsgrat III. The ridge promises a beautiful, well-secured climb. After said climb, it’s across an approx. 35° steep firn snow-encrusted flank to the summit of the Piz Roseg (3,921 m).

  • Walking time approx. 7-8 hours

Wednesday

Initially, it’s on a well-labelled moraine path to the start of the Fuorcla Prievlusa. Climb the ridge on an easy steel cable via ferrata, then it’s crossing the easy Felskletterei II to the snow and firn ridge of the Biancograt. Cross it to the Piz Bianco (3,995 m) and continue on the Verbindungsgrat III in high-altitude climbing to the Piz Bernina (4,048 m). Descend via the Spedlagrat II to the Marco e Rosa-Hütte hut (3,597 m).

  • Walking time approx. 8 hours

Thursday

Take the Bellavista Terrasse to the Fuorcla Bellavista – from there, we’ll cross the Piz Palü (3,901 m) for a second time. Descend via the Normalanstieg climb from the Diavolezza.

  • Walking time approx. 6 hours
  • Departure

Requirements:

  • Very good endurance 400 altitude metres/hour
  • Safe climbing iron technique vertical, frontal approx. 45°
  • Experience in combined terrain II-III

Cost per person:
  •  1 PAX € 2.600,-
  • 2 PAX € 1.400,-
  • Plus own expenses and expenses of the mountain guide
  • Rental equipment available

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