Grossglockner (3,798 m)

 

With a height of 3,798 m, the Grossglockner is Austria’s highest mountain. The striking top made of greenschist facies rock is part of the Glockner Group, a mountain range in the middle part of the Hohe Tauern nature park, and is regarded as one of the most important summits of the East Alps. Ever since the first explorations in the late 18th century and the first ascent in 1800 by four participants of a large expedition headed by Archbishop Salm-Reifferscheidt-Krautheim, the Grossglockner has played an important role in the development of alpinism. To this day, it is of great significance to regional tourism and a popular destination for mountaineers with over 5,000 summit ascents a year. The view of the mountain, one of Austria’s most famous landmarks, is the main attraction of the Grossglockner High Alpine Road. (translated from Wikipedia)

 

Normal route

 

Requirements:

  • Good endurance for 350 altitude metres / hour,
  • surefootedness, head for heights and some rock climbing experience.

First day:

Meeting at the Lucknerhaus with subsequent ascent to the Stüdlhütte (2,800 m) with overnight stay option. After a food break we march to the start of the Ködnitzkee trail, from where we continue on the rope. Roped in, we climb along the glacier on easy steel cable via ferrata to the Adlersruhe (3,454 m), Austria’s highest alpine hut.

  • Ascent: 1,500 altitude metres
  • 4-5 hours

Second day:

As soon as the sun comes out, we head towards the summit with rope and climbing irons. Past the “Bahnhof”, Glocknerleitl, Kleiner Glockner to the infamous Glocknerscharte to the highest point of Austria at 3,798 m. Descent back to the Stüdlhütte and down into the valley to the cars.

  • Ascent: 300 altitude metres
  • Descent: 1,700 altitude metres
  • 6-8 hours

Costs per person:

  • 1 PAX: € 525,- / 2 PAX: € 300,- / 3 PAX € 230,-

  • Plus own expenses and expenses of the mountain guide

  • Rental equipment available on enquiry


Stüdlgrat southwestern ridge

The classic on the Grossglockner

 

Requirements:

  • Very good endurance for 400 altitude metres / hour
  • Climbing experience, max. difficulty II
  • Surefootedness and head for heights

First day:

Meeting at the Lucknerhaus with subsequent ascent to the Stüdlhütte (2,800 m)

  • Ascent: 800 altitude metres
  • 2-2.5 hours

Second day:

Starting early in the morning, we go via the Teischnitzkees to the beginning of the ridge (3,300 m). The Stüdlgrat is a true alpine challenge with climbing sections of difficulty levels three to four. Climbing sections and hiking terrain alternate in the compact rock. The climbing difficulty increases towards the upper part of the ridge, but rewards with breathtaking views. Descent via the normal route past the Adlersruhe back to the Stüdlhütte. Further descent to the cars.

  • Ascent: 900 altitude metres
  • Descent: 1,700 altitude metres
  • 6-8 hours

Costs per person:
  • 1 PAX: € 550,- / 2 PAX: € 330,-
  • Plus own expenses and expenses of the mountain guide
  • Rental equipment available on enquiry

Crossing the Glocknerwand

The longitudinal crossing of the Glocknerwand to the Grossglockner is a tremendous, impressive mountain tour. The ridge crossover to the Grossglockner is one of the most significant mountain ascents of the East Alps.

 

11 summits – challenging and arduous high-alpine tour with West Alps character – these words are enough to briefly describe the tour.


Requirements :

  • Very good endurance (450 altitude metres / hours)
  • high-alpine experience
  • speedy climbing in block ridge terrain

First day:

Meeting at the Lucknerhaus with subsequent ascent to the Stüdlhütte (2,800 m)

  • Ascent: 800 altitude metres
  • 2-2.5 hours

Second day:

We leave early in the morning across the Teischnitzkees heading west to the Teufelskamp (3,500 m), where the actual climb begins. Across the Glocknerwand (Hoffmannsspitze 3,722 m) to the Glocknerhorn and onwards on the northwestern ridge to the highest point of Austria, the Grossglockner (3,797 m). Descent via the normal route past the Adlersruhe (3,454 m) back to the Stüdlhütte and back to the cars.

  • Ascent: 1,500 altitude metres
  • Descent: 1,700 altitude metres
  • 10-12 hours

Costs per person:
  • max. 1 PAX: € 750,-
  • Plus own expenses and expenses of the mountain guide
  • Rental equipment available on enquiry

Grossvenediger (3,657 m)

The Grosvenediger, the “world-old majesty”, is the strongly glaciated main summit of the Venediger Group in the Hohe Tauern park on the border to East Tyrol and to Salzburg. With a height of 3,657 m, it is the Salzburg region’s highest mountain.


Normal route

 

Requirements:
  • Good endurance for 350 altitude metres / hour,
  • surefootedness, head for heights

First day:

The meeting place is at the Hopfeldboden in the entrance to the Obersulzbachtal in Neukirchen am Grossvenediger in the Upper Pinzgau. Taxi transfer to the ropeway for material transport of the Kührsingerhütte hut (1,950 m). Moderate ascent to the hut via a marked hiking trail.

  • Ascent: 600 altitude metres
  • 2 hours

Second day:

We hike to the glacier in the light of our headlamps, seeing it with the first light of day. We walk across the huge glacial area of the Obersulzbachkees past fissure zones to the Venedigerscharte (3,200 m) while roped up. From here, it’s another 400 altitude metres to the summit as the air gets thinner and thinner. The “grande finale” leads us across the famous firn snow ridge to the summit cross. After an extensive rest, we return back to the hut on the same path. After some refreshment in the Kürsingerhütte hut, we walk down to the ropeway for material transport, where the taxi already awaits us.

  • Ascent: 1,200 altitude metres
  • Descent to the ropeway for material transport: 1,800 altitude metres
  • 10-12 hours

Costs per person:

  • 1 PAX: € 470,- /  3 PAX: € 195,- / 5 PAX: € 145,-
  • 2 PAX: € 270,- / 4 PAX: € 165,- / 6 PAX: € 135,-
  • Plus own expenses and expenses of the mountain guide
  • Rental equipment available on enquiry

Wiesbachhorn (3,570 m)

Dominating firn dome and one of the most beautiful mountains of the East Alps. Rival of the Grossglockner, fully free standing. Main summit of the Fuscher – Kapruner Kamm. Deepest drop to the east and south – easy towards Ferleiten. Largest altitude difference between valley and summit of the East Alps with 2,418 altitude metres.


Requirements:

  • Good endurance for 350 altitude metres / hour,
  • surefootedness, head for heights and some rock climbing experience.

First day:

Meeting at the Kesselwandhaus car park near Kaprun. Bus ride to the Moserboden (2,100 m). Walk along the marked route to the Heinrich-Schwaigerhaus (2,802 m)

  • Ascent: 700 altitude metres
  • 2 hours

Second day:

We start our tour to the summit early in the morning, climbing a steep runway (“Klamml”, easy via ferrata) behind the hut. We continue to the summit at 3,570 m via the Forchezkopf and the Kaindlgrat. Descent on the same way to the Moserboden and back to the cars by bus.

  • Ascent: 770 altitude metres
  • Descent: 1,470 altitude metres
  • 7 hours

Costs per person:
  • 1 PAX: € 470,- / 3 PAX: € 195,-
  • 2 PAX: € 270,- / 4 PAX: € 165,-
  • Plus own expenses and expenses of the mountain guide
  • Rental equipment available on enquiry
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