High-alpine touring week: Monte Rosa

6 summits at 4,000 m and traversing the Liskamm. A highlight for experienced mountaineers.

A highlight for experienced mountaineers.


Sunday:

Meeting at 6 pm in the Hotel Bergfreund in Herbriggen..


Monday: Allalinhorn 4,027 m

Drive to Saas Fee and ascent by cable car to Station Hohlaub. Ascent onto the Allalinhorn via the Hohlaubgrat. Comfortable, beautiful firn snow ridge with brief sections on the rock (II). Descent via the normal route to zur Station Mittelallalin. Drive back to Herbriggen.

  • Ascent: 800 altitude metres
  • 5-6 hours

Tuesday: Breithorn, Pollux Rifugio Guide d'Ayas

By hotel taxi to Zermatt. Gondola ride to the Kleines Matterhorn on 3,800 m. Easy hike across the Plateau-Rosa to the Breithorngipfel on 4,160 m. Descent to the Breithornpass crossing on the s-side until the foot of the Pollux. Easy climbing tour, partially on fixed ropes, to the start of the firn snow ridge leading to the summit on 4,092 m.

  • Ascent: 800 altitude metres
  • Total distance: 3.4 km
  • 6-7 hours

Wednesday: Castor Quintino Sellahütte hut

Walk to the foot of the western fold flank of the Castor via the Verragletscher glacier. Across the fold flank in several switchbacks to the summit firn snow ridge and from there on to the highest point of the Castor at 4,228 m. Descent via the southeast side across an easy firn snow ridge to the Felikjoch and across the Felikgletscher glacier to the Quintino Sellahütte hut at 3,450 m.

  • Ascent: 800 altitude metres
  • 5 hours

Thursday: Liskamm traverse, Cabanna Margheritahütte hut (Signalkuppe)

Ascent via the Felikgletscher glacier and the Felikjoch onto the west summit of the Liskamm on 4,479 m. The traverse to the taller east summit at 4,527 m is amongst the classic summit tours in the West Alps. Beautiful high-alpine tour with brief rock climbing/scrambling section (II), long firn snow encrusted ridge and perfect view towards Zermatt and the Po Valley.

 

From the east summit impressive descent to the Lisjoch. Then via the Oberer Grenzgletscher glacier up to the highest refuge hut in the Alps region, the Cab. Margheritahütte on the Signalkuppe on 4,550 m.

  • Ascent: approx. 1,500 altitude metres
  • 8 hours

Friday: Zumsteinspitze or traversing to the Dufourspitze, Herbriggen

Heading off to the Zumsteinspitze at 4,563 m right after sunrise. Descent via the Grenzgletscher glacier to the Monterosahütte hut and continuing across the Gornergletscher glacier back to the Rotenboden, from where we go back down to Zermatt using the Gornergratbahn cable car. We ride back to Herbriggen in the hotel taxi.   

  • 8 hours

Saturday:

Departure after breakfast


Requirements:

  • Very good endurance of approx. 8 to 10 hours
  • Acclimatised for 4,000-m peaks (arrive in advance for acclimatised hikes recommended)
  • Secure climbing iron technique vertical and frontal approx. 45°
  • Experience in combined terrain II
  • Head for heights, surefootedness

Costs per person:
  • 1 Pax.: € 2600,-
  • 2 Pax.: € 1500,-
  • Plus own expenses and expenses of the mountain guide
  • Rental equipment on enquiry
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