Bernina crossing with Bianco ridge

The Piz Bernina over the Biancograt, the easternmost four-thousand-meter peak in the Alps.

Crossing the Piz Palü, one of the most scenic tours. Morteratsch-, Piz Rosegg via Eselsgrat that’s what awaits us this week.


  • very good condition 400 vertical meters / hour
  • Safe crampon technique vertical, frontal approx. 45 °
  • Experience in combined terrain II-III

1 day:

Meeting at approx.13 Clock at the parking lot of the Diavolezza cable car. Then continue by train to Morteratsch and then ascent to the Boval hut 2494m.

  • Ascent: 400hm
  • Walking time: 2 hours

2 day:

Piz Morteratsch 3751m: Ascent to one of the most beautiful panoramic mountains in the Bernina, Piz Morteratsch via the Bovalscharte, and descent to the Tschiervahütte 2583m.

  • Ascent: 1260hm / Descent: 1170m
  • Walking time: 6-7 hours.

Day 3:

Ascent over the Vadret da Tschierva to the beginning of Eselsgrat III. The ridge is wonderful to climb and well secured. After the ridge, the route continues over a 35° steep firn flank to the summit of Piz Roseg 3921m.

  • Ascent / Descent: 1340hm
  • Walking time: 7-8 hours

Day 4:

First we take a well-marked moraine trail to the beginning of Fuorcla Prievlusa 3250m. The saddle is climbed via an easy via ferrata, later via easy rock climbing II to the snow and firn ridge of the Bianco ridge. Over this to Piz Bianco 3995m and further over the connecting ridge III in airy climbing to Piz Bernina 4048m. The descent is via Spedlagrat II to the Marco e Rosa hut 3597m.

  • Ascent: 1500hm / Descent: 450hm
  • Walking time: 8-9 hours

Day 5:

Via the Bellavista terrace to Fuorcla Bellavista – from there we start for the traverse II of Piz Palü 3901m. The descent is via the normal ascent from the Diavolezza. Departure.

  • Ascent: 400hm / Descent: 1000hm
  • Walking time: 6-7 hours.

Cost per person:

1 PAX€ 2,700
2 PAX€ 1,500
plus own expenses and expenses of the mountain guide

Rental equipment available

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