Bernina crossing with Bianco ridge

The Piz Bernina over the Biancograt, the easternmost four-thousand-meter peak in the Alps.

Crossing the Piz Palü, one of the most scenic tours. Morteratsch-, Piz Rosegg via Eselsgrat that’s what awaits us this week.


Sunday

Meet at around 14 Clock at the parking lot of the Diavolezza cable car. Then continue by train to Morteratsch and then a comfortable ascent of about 2 hours to the Bovalhütte.


Monday

Piz Morteratsch (3,751 m): Ascent to one of the most beautiful panoramic mountains in the Bernina, Piz Morteratsch over the Bovalscharte, and descent to the Tschierva hut.

  • Walking time 6-7 hours

Tuesday

Ascent over the Vadret da Tschierva to the beginning of Eselsgrat III. The ridge is wonderful to climb and well secured. After the ridge, it goes over an approx. 35 ° steep snow flank to the summit of Piz Roseg (3,921 m).

  • Walking time approx. 7-8 hours

Wednesday

First it goes over a well-marked moraine path to the beginning of Fuorcla Prievlusa. The saddle is climbed via an easy via ferrata, later via easy rock climbing II to the snow and firn ridge of the Bianco ridge. Over this to Piz Bianco (3,995 m) and further over the connecting ridge III in an airy climb to Piz Bernina (4,048 m). The descent is via Spedlagrat II to the Marco e Rosa hut (3,597 m).

  • Walking time approx. 8 hours

Thursday

Via the Bellavista terrace to Fuorcla Bellavista – from there we start to cross Piz Palü II (3,901 m). The descent is via the normal ascent from the Diavolezza.

  • Walking time approx. 6 hours
  • departure

Requirements:

  • very good condition 400 vertical meters / hour
  • Safe crampon technique vertical, frontal approx. 45 °
  • Experience in combined terrain II-III

Cost per person:

1 PAX€ 2,700
2 PAX€ 1,500
plus own expenses and expenses of the mountain guide

Rental equipment available